The Review Corner: Overnight Retinol Repair for Sagging Skin, Fine Lines and Wrinkles
Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair is one of the higher priced products that we stock at Jersey Beauty Company. We get a lot of customers asking us about the product – just how good is it? Can it live up to the claims of renewing skin and repairing sagging skin, fine lines and wrinkles? We know that retinol can increase collagen by almost 180% and reduce wrinkle depth by about 15% but how good is this product at achieving those kinds of results? And how easy is it to use? We asked Dermalogica skin therapist Naomi to help us to explain how the product works, and road test the Overnight Retinol Repair to give you our honest opinion.
We Love Our Ageing Skin!
At Jersey Beauty Company we are not against ageing skin. We understand lines and wrinkles are a natural part of the ageing process. We aren’t looking for quick fixes and we don’t believe women should be shamed for embracing their naturally ageing beautiful skin!
We do know that many of us have neglected our skin at times, and as such, have deepening lines and wrinkles as our skin has become dehydrated, losing collagen and elastin. We are interested in how Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair can repair that damage and help out ageing skin to be at its healthiest!
What is Retinol?
We need to go back a step to find out what retinoids are. Retinoids are Vitamin A derivatives that help boost collagen production, increase cell turnover and accelerate skin renewal to even out discolouration and smooth the skin. The most powerful effects of retinoids are on collagen, the stuff that plumps up skin and helps skin keep its structure. Retinoids have a dual effect here: they not only help to decrease the amount of collagen breakdown from sun exposure, but they also help to stimulate the production of new collagen. There are different types of retinoids with varying degrees of effectiveness – some of which can only be prescribed.
Retinol sits in the middle of these types, which means it is effective but doesn’t have as much potential to cause irritation to the skin.
What is Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair?
Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair is a part of the AGE Smart range. It is by far the most potent Dermalogica treatment! It is a concentrated, customisable nighttime Retinol
treatment cream accelerates skin renewal and reduces the appearance of deepening lines and wrinkles.
What does Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair do for fine lines and wrinkles?
When it comes to how it works, skin therapist Naomi says to think of your skin as trifle. The jelly is like the collagen that is keeping your skin plump and filled. As we age that naturally breaks down and is slower to be replaced. This is what causes deepening wrinkles and lines. If you imagine what it would look like if you were to take out the jelly part of your trifle, your top - the cream, which is the part you see on the top, would cave in. So what we’re working at is increasing the density of your jelly if you like! So in order to keep the surface smooth and healthy, which in essence is reducing fine lines and wrinkles, the retinol repair works on the deeper layers, rebuilding and rehydrating the skin.
What does Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair do for sagging skin?
Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair is also great for sagging skin. As well as the retinoids, it also contains a clever ingredient called Tetradecyl
Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoracetate (TAUT for short!), it contains three amino acids that have been shown to stimulate collagen and Hyaluronic Acid biosynthesis while inducing formation of two critical scaffolding proteins, decorin and lumican, that assist in proper collagen orientation and structure. Which is a really complicated scientific way of saying that TAUT results in firmer skin with increased hydration and tone.
Why does it only have 0.5% retinol in it? That doesn’t sound a lot?
0.5% - that’s how much Retinol is in Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair. Dermalogica therapist Naomi explains this might not sound a lot if you aren’t used to dealing with retinol, but it is a lot when it comes to retinol! It’s a very potent ingredient that can cause irritation if not handled properly.
How do you use Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair?
Unlike a lot of retinol products on the market that come with just the retinol itself, Dermalogica have developed a treatment system to ensure you get the maximum benefits whilst guarding against skin irritation, as your skin adjusts to using retinol.
You will get a buffer cream with your Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair. You will use it nightly, after cleansing and toning. You don’t need to use an exfoliator or a moisturiser beforehand as the Overnight Retinol Repair will do both of those jobs and more!
The 1:3 ratio rule
Dermalogica recommend that for the first two weeks you use a one part Overnight Retinol Repair to three parts Buffer Cream, as your skin adjusts. It can be tempting, when you read all the amazing results people are experiencing from this product, to jump straight in. But skin therapist Naomi says don’t do that! Skin irritation will have the same effect as ageing – you are creating more damage in your rush to get the benefits! The build up effect using the buffer cream will help your skin get used to the Retinol and you will still see great results, but without the same level of irritation.
Why is it an overnight product?
At night your skin is naturally in repair mode. As you sleep your cells rebuild and repair and your skin is a part of that process. So using the Overnight Retinol Repair at night means you have the maximum benefits from the active ingredients. Also your skin won’t be exposed to the daily pollutants and sun exposure during the night. When you are using retinol, Dermalogica recommends wearing an SPF sunscreen of 30-50 during the days as well.
Also retinoids, including Retinol, have the potential of breaking down when exposed to sunlight and air. Retinol products should only be used at night. This is also why Retinol products usually come in opaque pumps or tubes with tight-fitting caps.
Who is this good for?
At Jersey Beauty Company we don’t believe in one-size-fits-all skin care and this product definitely isn’t for everyone.
It is a very active product, it is by far the most potent that Dermalogica make. It has the potential to make a big difference to skin that has sagged and has deepening lines and wrinkles. It can help skin health in more mature skin that has maybe been neglected in the past.
It can be great for rebuilding collagen and restoring hydration to the deeper layers of your skin. The unique way Dermalogica have designed the Overnight Retinol Repair means that you can build up your tolerance to retinol slowly. This is great if your skin is more sensitised.
Who is this not suitable for?
If you are pregnant or breastfeeding you shouldn’t use retinol.
Retinol can cause irritation, so truly sensitive skin types should also consult a skin care professional before using the Overnight Retinol Repair, although some mild reaction is quite normal as your skin adjusts.
The big thing to say about who this isn’t suitable for is – this is a product for mature skin. We suggest skin in your late forties at the earliest for this product, as before you’re your cell turnover rate is naturally higher. Also using a product like this, with high potency, too soon can mean you don’t have the benefit later in life when you really want and need it for your skin.
Our Verdict of Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair
In the right hands, this is an amazing product. We say that because it needs to be used with care and the instructions followed to get the benefits. Luckily Dermalogica have made that a really straight forward process.
And you can’t argue with the proven results of increasing collagen levels and wrinkles appearing less deep, as the skin becomes healthier. For us that’s the biggest plus of this product – how the skin begins to feel and look so much healthier. The renewing and repairing properties of retinol give your skin back a vitality and a renewed energy and glow.
It is a great product to invest in to kick start those processes that naturally have slowed as your skin ages and give your skin a helping hand to stay healthy and the happy remarkable you!